Our services

Decks framed to outlast the lumber warranty

Every deck failure you've read about started in the parts you can't see: footings that are too shallow, a ledger board bolted wrong, joists spaced for the wrong decking. We build decks from the dirt up so those parts are boring, which is exactly what you want.

The frame is the deck

Deck boards are replaceable. The structure isn't, not without redoing the whole thing. So that's where the money and attention go:

  • Footings poured below the frost line and sized for the actual load, not just "a bag of concrete in a hole."
  • The ledger connection, where the deck meets your house, through-bolted and flashed. This is the joint that fails in every deck-collapse story, and it's the one we're pickiest about.
  • Joists crowned, spaced for your decking material (composite needs tighter spacing than wood), and hung with the right hangers and fasteners, not deck screws through the end grain.
  • Hardware rated for treated lumber. Modern treatment chemicals eat cheap galvanized fasteners.

Surface and railing options

On top of that frame, your choices are mostly about looks and maintenance:

  • Pressure-treated pine: the affordable classic. Wants a season to dry, then stain or seal.
  • Composite decking: no sanding, no staining, color throughout. Costs more up front, saves weekends forever.
  • Railings: wood pickets, metal balusters, or cable rail, all built to take a 200-pound lean, because the code number is there for a reason.
  • Stairs, landings, benches, planters: framed into the structure, not screwed on as an afterthought.

What drives the price

Size and height, first. A ground-level 12x16 is a very different job than a second-story deck with a stair run. Then surface material (composite roughly doubles the board cost over treated pine) and finally features like railings, built-ins, and angles. We itemize every line in the quote so you can trade features against budget with real numbers.

Decks that work with the rest of the yard

A deck rarely stands alone. We regularly pair them with a pergola for filtered shade, a pavilion when you want a real roof over the outdoor table, a covered porch tie-in at the house, or a privacy fence that turns the deck into a room. If the bigger picture includes any of those, tell us up front, because building them together is cheaper than building them in sequence.

Common questions

Pressure-treated or composite decking: which is better?

Pressure-treated pine costs the least up front but wants cleaning and re-sealing every year or two. Composite costs more per board and needs tighter joist spacing, but you never sand or stain it. If you plan to stay in the house ten years, composite usually wins the math; if you're selling in three, treated pine makes sense. Either way the frame underneath is treated lumber; the decision is only about the surface.

Do decks need a permit in Middle Tennessee?

Usually yes. Most jurisdictions require a permit for attached decks and anything with significant height, and inspections cover footing depth and railing strength. That's good news, not red tape: those rules exist because bad decks fail at the ledger board and hurt people. We handle the permit process as part of the job.

How long does a deck build take?

A straightforward ground-level deck takes about a week including footings curing time. Add height, stairs, angles, or built-in benches and it grows from there. We give you the schedule with the quote and we don't start until materials are on hand.

Can you repair or rebuild an existing deck?

Yes. Often the surface boards are shot but the frame is salvageable, or the opposite, the boards look fine but the footings and ledger connection are scary. We'll assess it honestly and tell you whether repair or rebuild is the better spend.

Ready to talk about your project?

Tell us what you're picturing and we'll send a same-day quote. No pressure, no sales script, just a builder's honest answer.